Dark brown, with an incalculable specific gravity, Indian Pudding is monumental. It smells like burnt corn and it tastes ancient, conjuring visions of stark Pilgrim feeds. Unlike glamorous desserts, it will never be sinful or decadent or the least bit creative. No one will ever market McPudding or Squanto-in-a-bowl or All-New, Lite Hot n' Gritty Dessert Food Product, and we doubt if we will ever see it as a Ben and Jerry's flavor. This dark duff defies the march of progress and the wheedling of inventive chefs. It will always be hopelessly dowdy, treasured all the more by partisians for its august character."

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